Wednesday, February 10, 2010

Trashing Parker


A holiday gift, finally read, Jonathan Nossiter's "Liquid Memory: Why Wine Matters" is worth your time if you're a true wine geek. There is techno-talk and jargon, name-dropping and inside scoop galore. Nossiter made the film "Mondovino" in which enologist Michel Rolland is depicted as a chuckling raconteur who proclaims "Micro-oxygenate!" at every one of his clients' wineries. This is Nossiter's first book and he gives it his all...all his condescension. He is erudite, very well educated, an international citizen. His vocabulary is enormous. Yet with his totally dismissive view of established wine journalists, such as Mr. Parker, he reveals his own foibles. He doth protest too much. While many would agree with him on the unfortunate "Parkerization" of wines, his vehement denouncement is so off-putting it makes you want to cheer for Parker. Having said that, it is a passionate testament to the importance of purity, terroir, and integrity in winemaking. Mr. Nossiter just needs to find a bit of humility.

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